Sonoma Plaza History

Sonoma Plaza's history is really the history of the state of California. It speaks to the contributions of our Native Americans, the Spanish & Mexican cultures, Russian influences, and to the pioneering spirit that forged California.

Although the area had been home to the Coast Miwok tribes long before Europeans arrived, the town of Sonoma began with the founding of Mission San Francisco Solano in 1823.

Lieutenant Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo was charged by the Mexican government with the task of maintaining law and order in the area. This meant keeping an eye on the native tribes, the Russians at Fort Ross, and the several dozen American immigrants who had found their way to El Pueblo de Sonoma.

In 1846 - less than 3 years before gold was to be discovered in California - those few dozen Americans who lived around The Plaza hatched a plot to snatch California away from Mexico. Their reason? Mexico's centralization policies.

Thus, on June 14, 1846, these men took the following actions (later dubbed the Bear Flag Revolt):

Now, we have to keep in mind here - this was long before the Internet, cell phones, facebook, and twitter! Unbeknownst to the Bear Flaggers, the United States had declared war on Mexico back in May.

The Californians didn't receive word that the U.S & Mexico were at war until mid-July. When they did, they thought it prudent to abandon their infant Republic in favor of joining the war on the side of the United States lest they find themselves warring not only with Mexico, but with the U.S. as well!

Thus the California Republic was quite possibly the shortest-lived Republic in the history of the world, lasting a mere 26 days.

But it does seem - one way or another - that California was destined to eventually become the 31st state in the Union, and today's state flag honors the efforts of the Bear Flaggers with its star, its grizzly bear, and the words "California Republic".

Obviously Sonoma Plaza history - even California history - started long before the events leading up to statehood!

First came the Indian peoples who populated the land. Like most Native Americans prior to European settlement, they lived off the land, in partnership with nature.

Interesting Tidbit: Contrary to popular belief, "in partnership with nature" does not mean Native Americans did nothing to change their environment.

For instance, it's becoming more and more accepted that the First Americans used fire to keep underbrush and small trees controlled in forests.

Their purpose was probably two-fold: to help maintain the health of the forests, and to aid in their own security and hunting.

But that all began to change with the coming of Spanish explorers in the early 1500s, and especially so when Spanish settlements began erupting in the mid-1700s. From that time forward, Native Americans saw their land come under the auspices of 7 different foreign governments.

The most visible evidence of Sonoma Plaza's history, however, is its historic buildings which date from 1823 or so. Let's take a look at the ones that are on and around Sonoma Plaza and that belong to Sonoma State Historic Park. All of the State Historic Park buildings (except those associated with General Vallejo's home, Lachryma Montis) are located on East Spain Street near First Street East.

Father Jose Altimira of Spain established and consecrated the Sonoma Mission site in 1823 without the permission or authorization of the Church. It turned out to be the last of the California Missions, but ultimately the most successful - though not under Altimira's reign. (More about that in a moment.)

In 1825 the complex consisted of a temporary chapel made of wood and the Padres' Quarters, the low adobe wing you'll see to the east of the current chapel. The Padres' Quarters, although partially reconstructed, is the oldest building in Sonoma.

Eventually other buildings were added, not all of which exist today: a storehouse, workshops for teaching the natives various crafts, and of course, the original adobe church that was east of the Padres' Quarters. (The current-day chapel was built in the 1830s by General Vallejo after Mexico secularized the Missions.)

Join one of the Docent-led Mission Tours Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays at 11 a.m., 12 p.m., 1 p.m., and 2 p.m. to learn about Native American life, and Mission life, as well as to view the paintings and artifacts. If you're there on a Thursday, you might see school children learning to make Native American baskets and candles.

Presidio de Sonoma (Sonoma Barracks)
(Northwest Corner of First Street East and East Spain)

Although Father Altimira was a good administrator for getting vineyards planted and constructing buildings, he treated his Indians cruelly under the guise of civilizing them, doling out floggings and imprisonment at will. As will happen, the Natives were inspired to rebel against this treatment and attacked the Mission, expressing their displeasure by burning down his church.

The good friar fled, ultimately returning to Spain, and the Mission was completed by Father Buenaventura Fortuni. Under Fortuni's excellent management, the Mission flourished and was about as self-sufficient as you could get in those days - there were gardens, orchards, vineyards, a jail, a gristmill, a cemetery, and a hospital or infirmary - everything needed to feed its citizens and to see to their needs.

But the uprising of the Natives, along with the incursion of Russians into California and into what Mexico considered to be its Northern Frontier, resulted in General Vallejo being ordered by the Mexican Government to move his garrison from the Presidio at San Francisco to Sonoma in 1834. This is where Sonoma Plaza History TRULY begins!

Upon his arrival, the General ordered that housing be constructed for his men. As you circumnavigate The Plaza, you'll see the Barracks on its original building site, across the street from Mission San Francisco Solano.

In 1835, General Vallejo designed and laid out The Plaza itself to use as a parade ground for his troups, making Sonoma a true pueblo town. The 8 acre park is the largest central plaza in California to this day.

Today there's a video for you to watch, and you'll see exhibits about the history of the Mission, General Vallejo, and the Bear Flag Revolution. There's also a replica of the original Bear Flag on display (the REAL original was destroyed during the 1906 Great Earthquake and Fires in San Francisco). Rumor has it that the red stripe at the bottom of the first flag was material taken from a woman's petticoat.

Inside the Barracks you'll find a Gift Store with, among other things, a variety of books on Native Americans, Mexican history, and the history of the California Missions.

Across the street from the Mission, on the south-east side of the intersection, is The Blue Wing Inn. It's long and two-storied, and has a variable history, depending on where you read about it. It may have originally been a collection of homes or buildings with various purposes.

But what is agreed upon: by 1840 or so, General Vallejo built the first story of the current structure (possibly incorporating one or more of the earlier structures), called it Sonoma House, and intended it to cater to visitors and passers-through from San Francisco and other points south. It was, in fact, the first hotel north of San Francisco.

Later, during the Gold Rush, the building was purchased by a couple of retired sailors, the name was changed to Blue Wing Inn, and it was operated as a hotel and saloon. It was about this time that the second story was added.

Many recognizable names purportedly made use of the Inn's hospitality according to local lore: John C. Fremont, Kit Carson, entertainer Lotta Crabtree, future president U.S. Grant, members of the Bear Flag Revolt, Governor Pio Pico, and more.

Interesting Tidbit: Sometime around 1968, after the property was acquired by the state, the Blue Wing Inn was divided into apartments for the use of local residents.

Since then, the building has been closed to the public, but the State Park system hopes to renovate it for public viewing soon.

Many people are aware of the home that General Vallejo built in 1850, when he became a State Senator.

But did you know Lachryma Montis was not Vallejo's only home in Sonoma? In 1836, General Vallejo began construction on his first home, Casa Grande, which stood in the middle of the block on what is now East Spain Street, facing The Plaza. When it was finished in 1840, it sported a second-story balcony overlooking The Plaza, and a four-story tower from which Vallejo could appreciate the fullness of the empire he had built.

It was at Casa Grande that the General's wife, Francisca Benicia Carrillo, gave birth to 11 of their children. After 1846 (when the General was arrested & sent to Sutter's Fort), the ground floor of the house was used as a retail store, the city council chamber, and for other purposes, then - in 1854 - the whole house was turned into a girls' school.

Casa Grande is gone now, destroyed by fire in 1867, but you'll still find the two-story Indian servants' wing - set back from the street - that served the house during General Vallejo's time.

This building is located next to the Barracks and has an interesting history. Built during the 1850s, it was originally Nathanson's General Store and lending library.

Later it was sold and housed different businesses until it became the Eureka Hotel, a hostelry for working-class folk. About 1890, the name was changed to the Toscano because the owners and many of their clientelle by that time were Italian immigrants.

A kitchen and dining room were added in 1902 as a separate building in the back and both the hotel and the kitchen/dining room have been refurbished with period furniture, wallpaper, curtains, etc.

You may have noticed I've left something out - General Vallejo's other home, Lachryma Montis. Well, I skipped it on purpose because, although it's part of the Sonoma Plaza Historic Park and Sonoma Plaza History, it's not actually ON The Plaza.

But don't worry - (remember that old song: "Don't worry, Be happy . . ." by Bobby McFarrin? I know it's silly, but I LOVE that song! Sorry - I'm back on track now!) - I won't forget to cover Lachryma Montis. I promise!

In addition, there are a lot more surprises around The Plaza - both historic and modern day. We'll definitely hit all the major highlights! So stick around - there's more to come!

The Other Face of Sonoma Plaza
Sonoma Plaza played a very important role in the process of California's statehood, but it's also a wonderful destination in its own right!

Sonoma County Wineries
Sonoma wineries number over 200, they produce 13 different varietals, and they're classified under 12 reknowned appellations! You don't need to know that to enjoy Sonoma's wineries, but you could use it to impress your friends. :-)

Sonoma Valley Wineries
You'll find some of the best wines in the world at Sonoma Valley's Wineries!

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SONOMA PLAZA HISTORY